Saturday, January 27, 2024

The East Coast of Florida

 I don't complain often, but right now I am tired and crabby. Operating on just a few hours of sleep makes Jim not a happy camper. We had been happy up to this last stop. In fact, we were having a blast. 

After leaving Forrest and family in Savannah, we continued south to Brunswick. We were going to visit Jekyll Island, but a friend suggested St. Simons so we went there instead. We had visited Jekyll last time we were in the area, so we thought we would try something new. 

Our first stop was Fort Frederica. There is a dozen or so forts like this scattered along the coast dating back to the mid 1700's. What I find interesting about these forts is what they were built out of. Looking at them for the first time, I thought they were built out of a manmade material of seashells and some kind of concrete. I later learned that I was not that far off, but it is natural, not manmade. 

Coquina is a sedimentary rock of all things ocean; seashells mostly. They were able to cut it into slabs and build the forts out of it. Much of it is still standing, hundreds of years later. Very interesting. 

Some of the trees on the grounds were equally impressive dating back up to 300 years. 

We drove to the other end of the island where we walked the waterfront and saw the lighthouse. Whenever we are in places like this Barb peeks at the real estate prices, not because we are looking to buy, but to see how much out of our price range the houses are. Very few houses were under a million and if they were, they were fixer uppers. 

We spent the night in one of the sketchiest Walmart's we have in a while. I can tell you for certainty, that Brunswick has a drug problem and most of the deals are taking place right in that parking lot. Some genius based their operation out of a beat-up Class A right there in the lot, about 15 yards from us. Car after car approached this RV, stopping for a few seconds before taking off again. We were never in any danger, but it did give us something to watch. 

The next day we headed to the St. Augustine area in Florida. Our friends Dan and Jeanie were driving over from their place in Dunnellon to hang out with us for a few days. They were staying at the Hampton Inn right on the beach. We were just going to wing it and find someplace to stay at night. That is the beauty of a truck camper, you can usually find a place to park at night. 

Our goal for the next few days? To fish and check out St. Augustine. We met Dan and Jeanie at Vilano Beach, after saying hello, they went and checked into their hotel. When they came back Jeanie hands me a parking pass saying that the clerk said we stay right in the Hampton parking lot! So, we tucked into the corner and called that home for the next couple of nights. 

Neither Dan nor I had been surf fishing before so we wanted to see if we could figure that out. Dan had bought and brought all the rods, reels and equipment to do it, so off to the beach we went!

We learned a lot. Our very first lesson came when we baited the hooks and walked to the edge of the surf to cast out lines out. The lesson? Put your bait away before you walk away from it to cast out your line. When we walked away, birds immediately landed on it and gobbled up the rest of the bait!

Speaking of birds, we had our first Wood Stork sighting. What an odd bird. It just followed us around and hung out while we fished. 

There were also a lot of gulls and osprey overhead as well. 

The fish were just not cooperating. We packed it in for the night and decided to get up bright and early to see if the morning bite was any better. It was not. We then headed over to the local pier to try our luck at pier fishing. 

Nope, nothing going on there either. If it was any consolation, the other fisherman were not catching anything either. It wasn't. Dejected we headed into town to drown our sorrows at the St. Augustine Distillery. 

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The tour was free and it was pretty cool. They had different taster stations set up throughout the distillery offering both mixed tasters as well as the straight product. 



After a tour and tastings, we were still dejected so we headed over to San Sebastian Winery for a tour and tasting which apparently no one took any pictures at. Then it was into the historic district of St. Augustine to walk the streets. But wait? What is this? City Gate Distillery? Of course we have to stop! We picked up a bottle of Cookie Dough Whiskey. Sounds horrible, but it actually quite delicious! By then we had worked up a hunger, so we walked down to the famous Columbia restaurant for an early supper. The Columbia offers authentic cuban cuisine. It was very good!

After supper we walked down to the old fort. 


We did not have time to take the tour, but even walking around the outside was fascinating. 

One more walk on the beach the next morning and we hit the road headed further south. 

But we did not go our separate ways. Dan wanted to try one more fishing spot about an hour down the road at Flagler Beach. The results you ask? Well, let's just say, the fish won this round as well. I still have yet to figure out this surf fishing. Our "Adventures with Dan and Jeanie" portion of our east coast tour complete, we parted ways and headed in different directions. 

Barb and I carried on south while they headed back to Dunnellon. We stopped by Rusty's Seafood and Oyster Bar in Port Canaveral for a late lunch. This place was recommended by our friends Jim and Diana who have wintered in Melbourne Beach for years. It did not disappoint!

Our destination for the next three nights was Long Point Park just south of Melbourne Beach. Our plans were to meet with Jim and Diana down here. They have been wintering down here for 7 seasons, but when they heard we were headed this way and were going to visit, they decided they would rather endure the cold Michigan winter than see us so they did not come down this year. 

That brings us to now, we are in the last day of our stay here. At first I thought we would love it. It is a remote park. Reasonable at ~$50/night. Quiet and it offers a lot of fishing opportunities. In fact, that is all we did while we were here. We got out the inflatable kayak and hit the water! 

Not being experienced saltwater fisher-people we did not know exactly what to do, but we tossed some live shrimp into the mangrove bushes and it was not long before Barb had her first fish on! It was a Whiting. We had to buy a cheat sheet at the local bait shop just to know what we were catching. She also caught a sea trout and a catfish which left me a bloody mess by the time I unhooked it and got it back into the water. All told, Barb caught 5 fish to my 1, a typical day fishing for us. 

After lunch I went out by myself for an hour and caught quite a few.  Black Drum, Mangrove Snapper, and a Jack Carvelle that pulled the kayak around before I finally landed it. 


Barb came and joined me after a while, she quickly caught a few more fish taking the lead back. The coolest part of the afternoon were the dolphins. 3 or 4 swam by us a couple of times within feet of the boat. The problem was we could never get any good pictures of them! They would surface and be gone before I could put the pole down and grab the camera. Very cool to see though. 

When we first arrived in the area, we thought "This is someplace we could spend the winter". Barb even went as far as researching monthly prices at the park. That all changed when the sun started to set and we started to feel all these little pin pricks on our legs, arms and necks. We could not see anything, but we knew what it was. They don't call them no-see-ums for nothing. Anyway they attacked Barb like crazy. If you have been reading this blog for a while, you know that Barb blows up like an Umpalumpa.

We retreated inside to escape them, but these little buggers are so small, they were making it through the screens! We started a Thermacell, which helped but they still attacked us both all night long making for a miserably sleepless night. Barb has been taking Benadryl, putting on hydrocortisone, but nothing seems to be helping. So, what we thought was our paradise has turned into our nightmare. 

It is fine during the day, but at night it is a terror. We leave today and carry on south. Hopefully our next stop is bug-free, and we get a good night's sleep! Looks like we might be without cell in internet at our next stop so we will not be able to keep up with reading blogs.

In the meantime, I will leave you with this calm and soothing video I took of the surf at sunrise in Vilano Beach.

84 comments:

  1. We too enjoy touring old forts and learning their history. No-see-ums are the worst! Are you planning an air boat ride in Florida? It’s a blast!
    Safe travels!

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    1. It's interesting to imagine what it would have been like to be some of the first settlers just stepping off the boat. I bet they cursed the bugs too!

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  2. I have been bit by no-see-ums up north so I expect they are a different species. Thank goodness they did not come in droves for me.

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    1. We've experienced them in Canada as well. These ones seem even smaller yet.

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  3. Hello,
    Wonderful photos from Florida! Great capture of the birds, I love the Osprey in flight.
    Your dogs are cute, did they enjoy the beach? The no-see-ums are awful. we were attacked at a beach in the Keys. Have a great weekend.

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    1. Do you know how many pictures I had to take to get that one I liked? You probably do.
      I tried getting one in a dive, but dang, they are speedy!

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  4. We spent a month in Florida so Jim could fish Lake Okeechobee. Didn't have much luck there. But had fun. No-see-ums are definitely not fun and I'm like Barb. A swollen itchy mess. Sure hope she feels better now.

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    1. I would love to fish that lake sometime. I hear it has monster bass!

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  5. Bait-stealing birds on the lookout for rookies--lol!
    Awk! Those nasty little bugs sound like absolute torture! We used to regularly travel on vacations to Florida when I was a kid. I have heard of them, but never encountered them...thank goodness. Hope you caught up on your sleep.

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    1. That's what we said. Total rookie move and the birds were there to take advantage of it!

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  6. Now you know why we stayed in an established park! No-see-um’s and remote parks are synonomous in Florida. One evening in Collier/Seminole SP and I couldn’t wear shoes for a week! Sorry you didn’t see any rocket launches while you were there. Did you see any boosters across the way at Rusty’s?

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    1. Did not see any boosters, but that does not mean there wasn't any. Bummer you were not there, it would have been fun to have you as our tour guide.

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  7. So enjoyed reading about your Florida adventures, it’s been awhile since I’ve been there and I’m particularly fond of the St. Augustine area, so you’re brought back fond memories for me. Hope you find a bug free area and take care of your beautiful Barb!!

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  8. No see ums are the worst! Hope you escape them at your next spot!

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  9. Lol...I loved the fish stories. You ended up with quite a haul. I'm sorry about Barb. I hope she's feeling better.

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    1. She has so many bumps on her it looks like she has chicken pox!

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  10. The noseeums are the worst. The good news is they don't fly in more than 10 knots of wind. When it is calm, stay away from the mangroves especially in the evening.

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    1. We did notice they were not around in there was any kind of a breeze, but when the sun hit the horizon and the winds died down it was bad!

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  11. You guys coming by the West Coast or central? Would love to hook up if you are in our general vicinity (Tampa area).

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  12. Flagler is a place I want to stay sometime. It looks perfect, plenty of seashore accessible. I kept reading looking for what made you grumpy, and then, the bugs! Yuck! Poor Barb. Those things love me too so I understand the grumpiness! Better luck at your next stop!
    We went to the San Sebastian winery when we stayed in St. Augustine several years ago. Nice place!

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    1. Flagler was nice and the beaches are dog friendly so that really helps. I think you'd like it there.

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    2. Really bummed that we were not able to make a visit work out...my pesky "job" got in the way, but I'll be retiring this spring, so the next time you come near Flagler Beach, we will make it happen

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    3. I know! From what I understand, we were pretty close to you. Now that we know where you are, we'll try to be in your area on a weekend. Or better yet, retirement sounds good!

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  13. as i read, i was expecting to see pictures of dejected jim...but all i saw was jim smiling?! i know you did not win with the fish, but it looks like you won with the beer and the cookie dough whiskey. if i were to like a whisky, that would be it for sure. i loved the video of the surf...i was at our beach yesterday. we often see dolphins and it is such a cool experience!! what do you do with all those fish while you are traveling?? i know you eat them eventually but i guess you have enough room to keep them fresh?! did i miss that part?? or maybe you have gone over it before!!

    too bad about those bugs!!

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    1. We ate two fish and let the rest go. The Cookie Dough Whiskey tasted just like my mom's cookie dough when I was a kid and just had to get it!

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  14. We've given up using Walmart parking lots.....you get what you pay for with them! Plenty of shady stuff going on through the night. Dave could never rest there. Vilano Beach is one of our favorite places to stop. We always stay at North Beach Camp and can walk across the street to the dog friendly beach or walk in the other direction through the campground and get to the river. Nice.....
    No see ums - grrrr. I, too, am very bothered by them. Our worst experience was south, in the 10,000 islands/Chokoloskee area. We had a lovely site complete with a dock and crab pot. We sat outside for happy hour and then they started. Turns out they were biting for a long time before I noticed, biting through the web chair I was sitting innocently on. I was covered with huge, red, itchy spots everywhere, even on my, ahem, "private bits". We couldn't get away from them, they came inside, everywhere, an awful experience. We left the site early, ate a hefty fee for doing so.....and never returned. Ugh.

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    1. Oh no! Your experience sounds worse than ours. We were going to stay at North Beach, but when Jeannie came out with that parking pass, it made everything so much easier.

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  15. This is Dino and I will give you some free advice because I know you won't pay for anything. We have been Florida residents off and on for several years. What works for your "no see ums" is if you can find a vanilla spray. It really works and it will make you more presentable when in public. Did you notice that people learn from my blog because it is educational and all your readers learn is that you like to drink? Love the blog.

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    1. You are truly a public service kind of guy aren't you! You should really consider starting a vlog so people can see the face behind this life changing advice.

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  16. Cookie Dough whiskey? My mom never put whiskey in her cookie dough!
    Hate those tiny pesky no-see-ums, I've resorted to carrying a spray can of RAID!

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    1. It sounds disgusting, but I actually liked it. It tastes just like raw cookie dough!

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  17. Too bad my brother isn’t still there he’d take you out surf fishing! Good for Barb on the fish front. Bummer in the bugs. Are you sure you didn’t spritz her with something so she couldn’t fish anymore?!

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    1. Hmmm, is there a bug attractant? If so, I just might have to get some for the next time we go fishing.

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  18. Welcome to our lovely state. We did not have "no-see-ums" until the pandemic, when the 'northerners' brought them all down. (That's my story and I am sticking to it!) Actually, we don't have them around our condo, but I stopped once in Tarpon Springs to get a picture of the harbor, and boy did I get chewed up! I take it you are going all the way down to the Keys...enjoy, hope you find good parking places along the route.

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    1. We prescouted our parking spots in the keys. Hopefully, they work out for us!

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  19. Anywhere near mangroves or treed areas you gotta get inside by 5 pm unless there is a good wind blowing because of the no-see-ums. Sorry guys you had to experience that. Well, good fishing after all so it wasn't a loss. About that distillery touring and then winery and another distillery? I probably would have been done for the rest of the afternoon :-) Hope the rest of the vacation is good for you.

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    1. Jeannie didn't drink after the first one and then eating at the Columbia really helped. Otherwise, we probably would have been napping!

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  20. Hate those no see ums. I was told to use the scratchy side of a sponge and very gently scrub the skin to get rid of the saliva they leave that causes the itching. It seemed to work for me ... that and Benadryl. Bug spray works too. They sure can make a night miserable!! I also use OFF bug spray liberally. It really does keep them away.

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    1. Now that we are away from the water, they are not an issue. Just a few mosquitoes.

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  21. I enjoyed reading about your Florida adventures.
    Those troublesome bugs makes it sound like a real ordeal!
    Love your gorgeous photos.

    Happy Sunday!

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    1. This is only our third adventure down here. There is so much we haven't seen!

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  22. Those bugs sound absolutely awful - however do the locals survive them? One of our local beaches has "something" that you cannot see that will bite like that if you sit still on the sand too long. I guess it is all part of the Adventures of travelling :)

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    1. I am sure the locals are a lot more big savvy than us. Had we been prepared, it wouldn't have been an issue.

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  23. You were certainly entertained in the parking area for the night, something like that opens ones eyes to what is going on in the dead of the night.
    Fishing tales or woes, but you both were fruitful in the end.
    Midges it sounds like what did bite, such tiny insects where the female needs blood to produce and so many varities of them as well, thank goodness they all don't bite. I know the itch and so on as I've been bitten as well in the tropics of Australia.

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    1. From what I hear, everything is trying to bite and kill you over there. We only have rattlesnakes and black widows up by us.

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  24. Yikes…those dang no see ums! Joe and I both love exploring old forts. And we have lots of nice memories of our trips to St Augustine….such a fun and colorful place to visit. I love the wood storks! I find them quite handsome/pretty in an odd sort of way! And what a sweet pic of Zoey!

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    1. That is why I took a close up of its head. They are so odd looking!

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  25. lol….really, you didn’t cover the bait bucket? All those bird pictures too. Ahhhh well…
    After touring all those place I’m surprised you could find the way home. I know… you followed the birds. Lol. I think I will let slide any comments on the fish catching… you are already depressed.
    I’m sorry to hear of Barb’s issue, Riley too has reactions to all bites.
    I’m happy to hear you are enjoying the forts, those are things I always enjoyed touring. It’s always interesting!
    Continued safe travels.

    Deb

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    1. Thank God for the GPS! Jeannie actually stopped drinking after the first tour so we were in safe hands.

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  26. No-see-ums are not fun. Sorry that Barb is suffering from their visit. Hopefully, the benedryl will help soon and you'll be able to enjoy your next spot.

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    1. She is still itching like crazy, but that's going to stop soon, right?!?

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  27. Those flies can get through cheese cloth over screens. Hope Barb recovers quickly once you are away from there.

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    1. I bet you have your share of them in the summer up there. Any tips or tricks are welcome!

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  28. Dang it--your experience in Florida is similar to ours--paradise until the sun goes down! And there are the alligators! And Florida is a long, long way from MT or SD! Glad you caught some fish, drank some whiskey and enjoyed being with friends--makes life very good indeed.

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    1. Especially when one goes to Pennsylvania first! Totally worth it though, as we got to see both of the kids.

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  29. Sounds like a great time with friends except those bugs! That's a great pic of you and Barb :) How nice about the parking pass! Can't wait to see your next stop!

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    1. We are hitting a lot of new territory this trip. It's fun to see places for the first time.

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  30. I am new here. I enjoyed your post and photos. I know what you mean about the parking lots - but the one I go to seems okay but I don't go at night.
    The photos from St. Augustine remind me of my youth - that is a trip my parents tood me too many times. Makes me want to go again!

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    1. In this case, we parked near the back. Maybe that was our mistake. Generally, we feel fine there.

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  31. Oh, you had a couple of mishaps, but the pictures are beautiful!

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    1. As long as those are the worst of it, I am good with that.

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  32. Warm weather and surf fishing, what a great winter y'all are having!

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  33. Sounds like you are having a great time exploring your way down through FL. We made our final FL visit seven years ago. The no-see-ums were the worst I've ever seen. I said I would nor return again. I couldn't be outside after 3:30. If I wanted to stay out, I had to sit with a Therma Cell behind my legs, bug spray everywhere, and those blue repellent wheels on my lap, and I still got some bits. I looked a pin cushion. Sure hope they aren't too bad as you move south. Good to hear Barb is keeping up her fishing record!!

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    1. I can just picture you sitting there with all those devices. We too look like a pin cushion right now!

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  34. Overall, it sounds like the trip continues to be outstanding. The bonus of visiting with the kids helps overcome some of the negative experiences.

    We ordered up a cool front for y'all this week to help make you feel more at home. Can't help you with the fishing thing as I never got the hang of surf or pier fishing. My little bay boat was lucky for a lot of years and we kept the freezer full.

    No-see-ums. Small gnats with giant teeth. My theory is the gummint was developing them as some sort of military doomsday weapon and they escaped to terrorize the general population. Habitat is key. They flourish along the coast, especially around marshy areas. As you found out, regular mesh screening won't stop 'em. Indoors, running a fan can help as they are weak fliers. Some folks say a mosquito repellent with DEET helps. Old mullet fishermen around here say drinking a small glass of lime juice first thing in the morning helps. I say - nothing helps. When I head to the salt marsh, I try to go after the sun is up and cover up as much as I can. For the bites, a bit of vinegar may offer some relief. Although you'll smell like a salad for awhile.

    Other than bugs and drugs, we hope the journey has many more high notes for you!

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    1. Good advice! We head in before the sun hits the horizon now. Our next two stops are going to be on the water, so we are hoping for a little wind. Thanks for this cooler weather, we are loving it!

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  35. So much FUN!!!!!!! I was in Calif in the summer of 22, and did not even make it to the beach.....it is calling my name

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    1. The beaches here are pretty nice. A few sun bathers, no swimmers.

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  36. A wonderful post with wonderful photos of things I will never see in person

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    1. That's the beauty of blogging isn't it? I took like reading about and seeing pictures of places I will probably never get to.

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  37. That looks like a whole lot of fun, well apart from the drug goings on and those horrible midges. I have the same problem as Barb swelling up with the bites. She definitely has my sympathy. Sounds like more enjoyment than not though and all this was fun to read. Great photos and video, Thanks for sharing your adventure. Happy travels!

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    1. We are definitely having more fun than not. Next time we will be better prepared for those nasty little buggers!

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  38. Thank you for your wonderful photos and your report... it was like a little vacation for me.
    Kind regards and always have a good trip... and nights without stinging insects.
    Hug

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    1. Since leaving that area, we have been bite free. The affects of that night are still with us however.

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  39. Sounds like a great time, except for the bugs.

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  40. Oh mercy. The bugs would END me ... just put paid on my life and it's over. You guys suffered enough for ten lifetimes, in one night! I'm so sorry. I should have warned you, hahahaa! I hated Florida for the whole ten years I lived there for the palmetto bugs and the mosquitoes. I was bit to death by mosquitos throughout my childhood and to this day they will cross state lines to find me and torment me! BUT it has been my dream for many, many years to visit St. Simons Island ever since reading Lighthouse, New Moon Rising, and The Beloved Invader -- the St. Simons Trilogy -- by Eugenia Price. My daughter and her husband visited there last year and they loved it. And St. Augustine! One of my dream destinations that I will get to eventually, even though it is in Florida, hahaha! xoxo

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    1. You could have warned us about the bugs! They are finally starting to not itch after 10 days. Next time we will be more prepared.

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  41. What great adventures you guys have had in Florida! All that fishing and spending time with friends. I have never heard of no see um bugs much less seen them (though sightings of them seem to not be a thing due to their name) or been bit by them that I know of. And they are everywhere- as far north as Canada? What? Something new to worry about, lol. St. Augustine is so pretty. Alyssa and I stopped by to visit the (/a?) lighthouse in St. Augustine a couple of years ago when we were in that area of Florida. Enjoy the rest of your travels/ adventures- will look forward to reading more (while cozy ensconced in a bug free habitat!).

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    1. If you ever experienced no-see-ums, you would know it. St.Augustine is really nice, I can see us stopping there again.

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