Saturday, October 21, 2023

Being Tourists in The Black Hills

 Why is it the closer you live to something the less likely you are to visit it? This seems to have been the case most of our life. We lived on a Class A musky lake, but we rarely fished it. We lived within an hour of one of the country's best state fairs, but rarely went. And now, we live within an hour of many of the country's best attractions, but we never go. 

Well, we set out of change some of that this week when we became tourists at the towns of Deadwood and Lead. One of the reasons we avoid these towns is that they are so crowded during the summer months that is just no fun to go, but in mid-October, it is quite pleasant. There are still people, but dozens, not hundreds. 

We started in historic Main Street in Deadwood. 

As you can see, it was pretty quiet. It had been years since we have been to historic Main Street and not much has changed. Mostly bars, restaurants, casinos and tourist type shops selling T-shirts and trinkets. We were looking for a good place for lunch and just could not find anything that looked good. We ended up at Guadalajara's Mexican restaurant inside Cadillac Jacks casino. Both our meals were very good!

On our way out Barb asked for a dollar, I handed her a 5-dollar bill and she said "I just want a dollar" so, I took that back and handed her a dollar bill. She has this thing where she walks around the casino until she finds a machine that "speaks to her". She stopped in front of a penny machine named Piggly Wiggly, inserted her dollar, pushed the button. It beeped and the display went through a series of screens before it finally stopped. These things are so complicated that you never know if you win. Then the credits started going up, finally ending on 1,940. She won $19.40 on a .60 bet!

From there we went to the Days of '76 Museum. I thought it was about the timeframe of 1876 when Deadwood was founded but it was mostly about the history of the Day's of '76 rodeo and parade that takes place every year. The also had a huge display of historical guns and wagons. It was interesting but not quite what I thought it was. 

Then it was up to Boot Hill where Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane were buried. Now, this was interesting! Old cemeteries are interesting all by themselves but add the element of a couple of famous people and it gets even more interesting!!

They are buried side by side. Many people have left coins and trinkets at each of their grave sites. As interesting as these two sites were, there were other sites that were thought provoking. Like this one with a large monument. 

What was interesting about the site of this woman (Eugenie), is that the engraving highlighted who her husband was rather than who she was.  There were many sites like this.  I can already picture Barb's headstone; "Jim Nelson was a great man, who accomplished many things, here lies his wife, Barb".

Or this one of poor Alice (foreground), born in 1862, and who lost all her children at a young age. Baby Alvin, (back middle) who died as a baby, Alta, (back right) who died in 1908 at the age of 14 and Charles (back left), who died at the age of 18 in 1913. You can only imagine what poor Alice has been through and what she has seen in her life. Especially since she has no death date and is alive and well at the ripe old age of 161 years old!
It is interesting (and maybe a bit morbid?) to walk through cemeteries like this and wonder what these people's lives were like.

And no visit to Deadwood is complete without a stop at The Chubby Chipmunk. Their hand-dipped chocolates are to die for!
We also visited the town of Lead, just a few miles away. This town too is filled with history but more of a mining history. It is most well-known for the open pit, Homestake Mine. 
This gold mine operated for over 120 years before it closed in 2002. There is an even bigger open pit still in operation just a few miles away. 

We spent a night at a campground in Spearfish Canyon. The Rod & Gun Campground is operated by the US Forest Service.  We have tried to stay here in the past but our rig was always too big. Not this time with the truck and camper!

The scenery was beaufitul but what we should have brought was our flyrods, there were trout everywhere in the stream!
The leaves were past their peak but it was still beautiful in the canyon. 

We also made progress on our goal of ascending the 100 tallest peaks in the hills. Two were driving and right next to each other and two were hiking. Terry Peak and Deer Mountain are just outside of Lead. Terry Peak is most well known for its ski resort and at 7,064' is the 7th highest peak in the hills. You can drive right up to the top via a rough gravel road. averaging 6-8% grade on the road. 

Once you get to the top, there is a walkway up to a lookout area. The views are great but obscured by the towers at the top. Even Dakota climbed the stairs to see the view!
It is said that you can see all 100 peaks from this viewing area!




You pass Deer Peak on your way up to Terry. It too had a ski resort, but it has been sold and being developed into housing. Not nearly as picture-worthy. At 6,652', it is the 33rd high peak in the hills. 

The other two hikes were a little more adventurous. Peak 6701, the 29th highest. It is one of the most remote of the top 100 peaks and is in the middle of nowhere, the closest town being Rochford. Most of the snow from last Thursday's storm had melted, with only pockets of the white stuff remaining in the shaded areas. 
With no established trail, we had to bushwhack our way up to the peak. It was fairly open, so we were able to take the girls and weave our way though some deadfalls. 


It got thicker near the top. We did not have an exact location, so we picked this highest rock outcropping in the area and called it good. 

On the way down, I took this picture of Barb. That is her and the girls circled in the bottom left and the truck is circled in the middle right. 
Afterword we stopped for lunch in the infamous Moonshine Gulch bar in Rochford. It had been over 20 years since we had been there during one of our Sturgis adventures back in the day. Although not nearly as busy as it is during the rally, the atmosphere and the food was just as good. 

The next hike was a bite longer and a bit more strenuous. You would think Custer Peak would be outside the town of Custer, but instead, it is halfway between Hill City and Deadwood on Hwy 385.  This hike is best suited for a jeep or ATV/UTV but we took our truck and camper to the base of the hill, which was an adventure in itself. The views on the way out, however, were incredible!
Once we got to the base of the hill, we parked at the bottom, got the girls out, and walked up the very rough road switchback road to the top. You can see the fire tower above Barb as we walk up.
There is a fire tower at the top that gives you a 360° view of the surrounding hills. At 6,804' Custer Peak is the 22nd highest peak in the hills. 



This makes our 6th peak, only 94 to go!

We had received a text from our friend Chad saying that he would be stopping by our house on his way home from a Wyoming hunting trip so we headed home to find him, Cavin and Carmyn already there drinking our beer (Chad) out in the gazebo. 
Barb made an outstanding taco bar and the 5 of us hung around talking and watching a bit of football while Carmyn played with Zoey. They left about 3am the next morning to make the 12-hour trek back to their home in Wisconsin.  

And with that, we end this week's installment of Adventures with Jim and Barb. Stay tuned next week, as we have more adventures planned!

65 comments:

  1. How long ago did you drop the “RV” from your title? Kinda hard to do that with ours! Custer Peak looks amazing!

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    1. Very astute observation! I did that about a week ago, it seems most of our adventures are non-RV related so thought this fit a bit better. Barb has not even noticed that yet.

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  2. Its too bad Deadwood is so commercialized now. When I was there many moons ago, it was fascinating to visualize it in its heyday. Those are some mighty cool views you've seen. It looks like it's just waiting for snow! As for the cemetery ... I think your headstone will read Husband of Barb, an Amazing Wife and Mother who built their home single-handedly in snow 10 feet deep!! He helped! I admit, I love navigating old cemeteries.

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    1. Probably a more accurate headstone for sure. I just thought it was interesting how they did that back in the day. If you ever make it up this way (and we are here) we will have to do a cemetery tour!

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  3. Hello,
    I am with you on the crowds of people, I would stay away until most are gone.
    Congrats to Barb on the casino winnings. The landscapes and views are beautiful, I love the golden trees. Your furbabies are adorable. I miss my old yellow lab. Great collection of photos from your adventure. Have a great weekend.

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    1. We do not have a lot of deciduous trees, so it is always a treat to see them, especially when they are in full fall colors like that!

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  4. Nice!! The year we visited in April we found it was a good time to explore towns such as Deadwood, not many tourists!

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    1. October, November and April are some of the best months to see the sights with minimal tourists in the area!

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  5. Great pictures and storytelling. I love old cemeteries, too. Poor Alice! I am with you on the crowds, I don't even like to go in the grocery store when it's busy.

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    1. We are alike with the grocery stores. Barb and I will sometimes shop together and I just need to get the heck out!

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  6. I for one am glad that you are out scouting new locations that you can take us to to buy lunches for us. But........what really amazes me about this post is that there is not one mention of drinking, boozing, breweries and places of ill repute. It's like we don't even know you. I don't believe you hiked up those mountains either. Those look like pictures from your Ranger.

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    1. Well, we did stop by two distilleries in Deadwood, but both were busts. They also have a brothel but all they have in there are manikins, not nearly as much fun.

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  7. Congrats on your first six peaks. Looking forward as you check the next 94 off the list. We enjoyed Deadwood on our travels and took in the re-enactment of the Wild Bill Hickok shooting.

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    1. They did not have the re-enactment on the day we were there. I think that is only a peak tourist period event.

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  8. Your visit to the historic town and cemetery looks like a lot of fun.
    best, mae at maefood.blogspot.com

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    1. We have talked about going to Boot Hill for years but always passed through. This time we actually stopped!

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  9. I have always been fascinated by cemeteries and wondering about their lives. I wonder why no one had that woman's death date carved in? How strange.

    Avoiding the crowds would be the only way I would go, too. Great trip with lots of hikes and friends waiting for you when you got home. Nice!

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    1. It is sad to see how young many of the children died back then. A much harder life with no vaccines.

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  10. People out here in California always ask me what the Keys are like? Are there really Gators along Alligator Alley? Have you ever been to Miami? All these places we swear we will visit one of these falls or spring times...

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    1. We are hoping to hit the Keys this winter so maybe we can finally see what it's like! I'll pass on Miami though.

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  11. We’d love to go back to Deadwood and Lead as it was snowy and empty when we were there. We’re fascinated with old cemeteries too. I always wondered what happened to those with birth dates but never buried there. I can’t believe you travel with no poles! I love your hikes and hiking goal!

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    1. We had our poles in the truck but headed off without them. Barb's knee swelled up so we might take a break for a week or so.

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  12. Enjoyed hearing about your outing. It's just the kind of outing we like with a combination of history and outdoors.

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    1. Pioneer history is my favorite. Part of me wishes I'd experienced it. The other part is glad I didn't!

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  13. Love that spirit of adventure you two have. Well done! I look forward to what’s next.

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    1. Setting goals like that pushes us to get out there and achieve them!

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  14. You are so right, we never sight see close to home and that is a mistake, there is always so much to see if we simply look. The first sign of snow and my feet would be running in the other direction.
    Here lies the man Barb married, hard worker, dedicated spouse, incredible parent and grandparent. Loves to laugh, explore and seek new adventures. Her husband was a nice guy too. Lol.
    I love the gazebo! It looks like your company likes it too.
    Keep climbing.

    Deb

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    1. We'll probably save that epitaph so Barb can use it. Hopefully 20+ years from now!

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  15. Good photos and wonderful to see a place/s rather different to ours yet similar.

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    1. That's one thing I love about blogs; getting a peek into other areas of the country and seeing what it looks like.

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  16. When I was in law school, I used to run in an old cemetery in Dayton that was near my place. Many ¨Dayton Greats¨ are buried there including several of the Wright family and others. There were walking paths and the highest point of Dayton (granted, not very high considering Dayton is in Ohio!) is in the cemetery so it was quite pretty. After a while, though, I felt like it was disrespectful to use the place of many people´s final resting place (of their bodies... I do believe in an afterlife) as a running course so I stopped running there. I wonder where the 161 year old lady is today, lol? You are fortunate to live near such incredible natural beauty (there is beauty in Ohio but I refer to it as a ¨subtle beauty¨). On the plus side, we don´t have to worry about an influx of tourists in our area...) Great pictures for your fun and strenuous adventure!

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    1. I would not consider simply running in a cemetery as disrespectful, just peaceful. Having a picnic on the other hand would be crossing the line. I have not been to Dayton, but I bet there are some hidden tourist attractions there that one would find interesting.

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  17. It's nice to be a tourist in your own area. We have done that a few times. Your gazebo set up looks real cozy.

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    1. You do have some beautiful areas up there that you have shared with us.

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  18. What a fun week you had! We were busy with family and jobs when we lived in Georgia and never did exploring there so on one of our return trips to visit, we made that a goal. I remember Deadwood and a nice Harley ride to get there. I’m guessing we were there with all the other tourists. It is beautiful country and we never did any exploring on foot…I love the creeks full of running water, the trees, vistas and meadows.

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    1. There is still some great riding weather here, sometimes into November. There is so much variation in the terrain, you can see all of those in just an hour!

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  19. Love going to these places off season. Deadwood looks like a nice town. Son visited several years ago and had a fun time. We always meant to go but for one reason or another we bypassed it. I would be very interested in seeing the graveyard. A lot of history on those tombstones. I would definitely make a stop at the Chubby Chipmunk for the name alone. The whole area sounds fun and I enjoyed the tour. Thanks so much! Great photos and a nice ending seeing Chad and family! Have a great week!

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    1. We only spent about 45 minutes in the cemetery. We could have spent a couple more hours just looking at the headstones. As for the Chubby Chipmunk, it was delicious but at almost $4 a truffle it can get expensive. One was enough to satisfy our sweet tooth!

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  20. Look at that gold mine.. the pit is huge. We are guilty of this ourselves, there are so many wonderful hikes, towns, beaches in our own state yet we are always looking to go somewhere else.

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    1. It is a huge open pit now just fenced off so no one can fall into it.

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  21. I have been watching the new Ken Burns documentary, The American Buffalo. They speak of the black hills and that part of the country. It looks very pretty.

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    1. I saw that show on the guide the other day, I will have to watch it!

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  22. So often we know little about those places closest to us. One of the reasons we decided to explore our new state. We enjoyed Deadwood and Lead on one on our motorcycle adventures. Great hikes! Love seeing the girls out there.

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    1. Your area has some great hiking and other attractions. As a matter of fact, one of our favorite hikes is just down the road from you near Lake Mead!

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  23. Sounds like you two are on a mission enjoy the climbs. It is true it does seem we see more of the rest of the country then we do of what is at our doorstep so to speak. I will say Tom and I explored the Upper Peninsula of Michigan mainly because it was our camping/tenting budget back in the day...lol...but we need to do it again. I am catch up reading and I must say what always strikes me about reading about your home is the beauty of it and the acreage you call home. After reading your blog about the Journey I now see a Journey of Love in that beauty. Just wow! The stone work is beautiful by the way.

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    1. Thanks for catching up! I see you two are on the move again. We have only visited the U.P. once but thought it was beautiful. Next time we want to bring our kayak and get out on the water a bit!

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  24. We, like everyone else it seems, never really explored our home areas. Always busy with family, work, etc. Thanks for taking us along to your neck of the woods.

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    1. I know, we have to force ourselves to get out and do something. Otherwise we find ourselves working around the house or doing nothing at all!

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  25. I feel like most touristy places are terrific in October - the weather is always nice but the crowds have dissipated. It helps when there are gorgeous Fall colors in every direction!

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    1. We have yet to find a place that we did not enjoy in October. Some of the touristy things might not be open but we are okay with that. We are there to hike, see the sights and enjoy nature.

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  26. We too enjoy the history and quiet of old cemeteries. LOL at how old Alice is today! Looks like you put a good dent in your peaks hiking - whew, good job. Love, love the pic from Custer Peak of the old building and fall colored hills. How fun to come home to find good friends :-)

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    1. The view from Custer Peak is probably our favorite so far. Not only the unobstructed views but the yellow of the aspen really made it special. As for coming home to find good friends, it would have been very special had Chad not been drinking my beer!

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  27. I'm glad you shared the story and photos from Spearfish Canyon. I've visited the Black Hills twice and have never made it there. I haven't made it to Lead either, and I'm curious, did you climb the hill in the cemetery. It's been quite a few years, but wasn't the mayor buried there? And I agree, the closer something is, the less likely I would visit it, at least until now that I'm retired. Have a super week.

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    1. We drove up and parked at the cemetery. Being off-season, there were less than a half a dozen cars there. The mayor is probably buried there but we don't know for sure.

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  28. Glad you visited! You know--- I'm not sure about the cameos. I think maybe at first there was a set model. Nowadays I see them in all styles, even Colors. I love them because they are old fashioned. Enjoyed the travel pictures . Debbi at debbisfrontporch, not anonymous! LOL

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    1. Thanks Debbi! We have a scattering of vintage stuff around our house as well.

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  29. You are so right about our human inclination to appreciate stuff more if we travel for awhile instead of checking out our own back yard. The playing tourist idea is a good one!

    You sure found a lot of fascinating things fairly close to home. I'm with you about seeming a little anti-social, so I really enjoyed the views once you got out of town.

    Great travelogue for those who don't want to travel far.

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    1. Our goal to hit all those peaks should get us out a lot more in the area. We hope to hit one or two peaks a week over the next month!

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  30. we too live in a touristy area and rarely visit many of the attractions. 10 minutes from the beach and boardwalk and rarely go in the summer. this sounds like a fun trip, i would like the little town and the museum for sure. the restaurant associated with sturgis looks so small but nice that you had a good meal and could bring the puppies in. i am not a big fan of cemeteries, but i enjoyed your pictures...and cluster peak, what a great image!! so much hiking, it is awesome you can do that!!

    you let people drink your beer even when you're not home...what a guy!! hehehehe

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    1. I would not go to the beach in the summer. Too many people and screaming kids! Moonshine gulch probably has less than 10 booths and it wall to wall people during the rally. On this day we were the only people there.

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  31. Hello :=)
    It's great to discover new places, and so true that the ones nearer home are rarely enticing. I enjoyed seeing all the beautiful scenery, especially from the peaks. Congrats on hiking up and reaching the peak of so many, 6 I believe, but I may be wrong. I admire your energy and love the fact that your girls and your dogs are also getting outdoors in the fresh air. I noticed that at one destination it was the film location of the wonderful Keven Costner film "Dancing with Wolves". I expect there are wolves on those mountain ranges! The chocolate truffles sound delicious, and your meals all sounded so good, which after all is all part of a great adventure and can make or break a holiday.
    All the best
    Sonjia.

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    1. There is no recognized population of wolves in the Black Hills but there are plenty of Mountain Lions. Although we rarely see them in person, we do capture them on our trail cameras once in a while.

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  32. Seems the only time we’re tourists in our own area is when we have company. Looks like a great trip. Always wanted to see Deadwood. Thanks for the tours!

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    1. You played tourists with us when we were there. If I remember correctly, you showed us numerous bars!

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